Suspension 301

Written by Highfive

This article is the 3rd and final issue in my suspension series.  I am going to share some specifics about what Go-Race did to transform my WRR stock suspension into something even better....much better!

 

I discovered Travis & his Go-Race Suspension shop in Christiansburg, Virginia, by pure chance, or maybe it was fate.  You can learn all about that in my ride report titled:  "Highfive Goes Dragon Hunting".    You'll have to read that story to understand why I hauled my bike all the way from Oklahoma to Virginia for Travis to work on.  You could do the same as me, or just ship your suspension components to him, if you desire this kind of an upgrade.  My advice:  Go Ride Virginia....its incredible!

 

Being there with my bike, permitted Travis a good time thoroughly flogging my WRR all over those magnificent Blue Ridge Mountains.  He is a very skilled woods racer, by the way, so, it ain't just head knowledge.  He gained some valuable butt-time to understand my stock WRR suspension.  Then, he began crafting the modifications to achieve the kind of changes that I desired.  It was helpful that I could explain to him accurately how the stock suspension was behaving for me, as well as what specific performance improvements I desired. 

 

A summary of the step by step procedures he undertook is listed below.  At least, its the best play-by-play I can muster from memory (with a little help from Travis).  I can't possibly cover every detail, because there were things going on inside that shop beyond my pay-grade.  "Trade Secrets" kind of stuff, no doubt, but Travis would simply call it his art.  After all, Everything is Art.  Besides, I didn't babysit the project trying to micro-manage.  I let the professionals take over and got out of their way.  However, I did gain enough understanding of their process to be able to share some helpful information.

 

I have no commercial affiliation with Go-Race Suspension.  I'm just inquisitive by nature.  Its the way I'm wired.  Honestly, I just want to go ride...and ride good!  Want my bike to perform predictably, not unexpectedly.  To inspire confidence in my riding ability, not erode it.  The ideal scenario for me is never really having to think about my suspension while I'm riding.  By that, I mean not having to plan ahead or prepare to compensate for a known bad behavior.  I like to focus on "riding the terrain, not the bike".  Its my preferred mindset.  When a bike exhibits poor handling behaviors, it tends to demand a lot more of your attention.  That often distracts you from the terrain....which commonly leads to a crash.   My own plausible theory, anyway.  

 

To be certain, its the rider.  But a good handling suspension sure helps that rider make it look easy!  Go-Race got her dialed in pretty darn good for me.  Here's the gist of what I got for my moo-lah.

 

Rear Shock

 

1)  Disassembly and inspection of all internal parts (piston band, shock body wear area, shock shaft wear, seal head wear).  Shock body internal porting from valve body side to reservoir side; compression adjuster inspection, (looking for casting flaws and orifice restriction from factory casting process).  Also taking note of the oil level in the shock.  FYI: most of the stock WRR shocks have been very low on fluid, and what little is there....the oil is just an aerated frothy mess!  This was certainly a contributor to the inconsistent damping and poor valve action on my shock. (the rear-end liked to buck me over the bars).

 

2)  Complete disassembly of shock shaft...from the clevis down to the valve body.  Note: in 50% of the WRR shocks overhauled so far, the shaft-to-clevis had no lock-tight in place.  So, there is potential for it to come apart while riding...which could result in some ugly consequences (shock damage, safety, etc).

 

3)  Rebuild shock from clevis up.  First a thorough cleaning of all parts...taking time to be very meticulous with cleaning (Travis likes clean.  He said it must be "Space Shuttle Clean").   But, I've never been on a space shuttle yet, so I'm not so sure if that means you can lick it like a lollipop, or surgically implant inside your body without any negative side affect.   Some kind of mighty clean, I reckon.  After that, he lock-tight and torqued the shaft properly to the clevis.  Above the clevis, he installed a superior KYB seal-head assembly (a better quality version than the original, and something that is rebuildable.)

 

4)  Spread out stock valving and valve body for inspection and modification.  Now, this is where the "trade secrets" begin.    Lots of ways to smooth and port different parts within the valving.    My sneak peek, found him busy milling the piston body to smooth it out, and hand porting any casting flaws from the stock shock piston.  Lots of patient, hands-on TLC at this stage.

 

5)  Complete rebuild of shock compression and rebound stacks onto the shock shaft.  More trade secrets (I mean Travis-ART), no doubt.  There are countless possibilities for designing a valve stack.  Numerous kinds of shims with different performance characteristics, and an endless combinations for stacking them.  I can't say what he actually did, because, frankly, I really don't know.  I did get to see the finished piece, and can attest that it appeared to be quite artistic...even futuristic.  Certainly different than I was expecting (much more complex than the original stock version).  Basically, my stock shock valving really stunk...in both compression & rebound departments.  Kind of hard to understand why it would come from the factory like this....other than to save a buck or two.

 

6) Tested new valving externally for proper assembly and fluid flow. 

 

7)  Re-assembled the shock.  Here's where he has made another stroke with his artist brush.  He's developed his own specialized oil bleeding process which helps make absolutely certain the shock has the proper amount of oil in place.  Pretty sophisticated trick here.  Its so much easier said, than done....correctly.

 

8)  Charge with Nitrogen, set clickers and install spring.  I believe my stock spring rate measured 7.7 kgm on his machine.  He thought it seemed ideal for a rider like me (between 175 - 200 lbs).  So, mine did not require a spring change.

 

9)  Tested finished shock for proper action and labeled the settings on the shock body.   Since I was on site with my bike, I got to go for a test ride immediately.  But I guess he would otherwise box it up, and ship it back to the customer with some kind of set-up instructions. 

 

 

Forks

 

Steps 1 & 2)  Pretty much same as above.  Take it all apart, inspect & assess.

 

3)  Removed stock compression base valve, and replaced it with a superior base valve that flows more oil and is not restricted by the stock orifice size hole (found in the stock base valve).

 

4)  Built up a new custom valve spec based upon my specific needs (weight, riding style, & performance characteristics desired).

 

5)  Removed the rebound assembly, and modified it using a proprietary Go Race procedure.  Then tested the new valving externally to ensure proper action and sealing.  Reassembled cartridge.

 

6)  Re-assembled the forks with all the modified components. 

 

7)  Filled the fork with the most advanced fork fluid on the market (per Travis)....Torco racing fork fluid (5.0 wt for me).

 

8)  Bled the cartridge and set the oil height based upon my needs.

 

9)  Set the clickers, & noted it on a label applied to my forks.  Then, he put these big Go Race Suspension stickers along the fork tubes.  I quickly decided I liked them.  They look cool & trick.  So, you'll probably get a set too.  

 

 

Result

 

Simply terrific.  I only made one adjustment to the suspension after a short ride in the woods.  I slowed my front fork rebound damping by just 2 clicks.  That's it.  I've never made another adjustment since the first day.    I've put in 6 months and a few thousand miles of enjoyable riding since.   A few people have been able to perform a side-by-side comparison of their stock WRR suspension to my modified Go-Race version, and just loved it.  The bike sits up firmer now.  Doesn't sag under load or wallow in turns.  Holds its line so much better along a rough trail.  The tires stay planted to the ground, absorbing the bumps, rocks, & logs without bouncing wildly off of them.  It definitely inspires confidence.  Quite a nice feeling allowing a more relaxed ride in rough conditions, while experiencing less fatigue.  Mission accomplished.  These were the things I wanted to achieve.  

 

Just for fun, I recently entered a big combo motocross/enduro race....finishing about 35th out of 65 riders (all who were on race bikes).  More significantly though, I was the ONLY person who actually RODE his bike to the event, raced, and rode back home!  I would not have attempted this race (Oklahoma Gold Rush) prior to this suspension mod.  I don't think I would have survived the big jumps over the mud pits with the stock suspension.  The new rebound damping is totally under control, while the compression damping, at full stroke, just bottoms out nice & soft, no matter how hard I land it.  There is no "pogo stick" effect in the aftermath, like before.

 

Granted you may not ever race your WRR in such event.  But its still cool to know you could?  You might feel that your stock suspension is just fantastic as is.  That's great!  I'm not telling anyone they need to run out and change anything.  All I'm encouraging you to do is consider "what if".  What if it could be made even better?  What if that made you like your WRR even better?  What if that made you a better rider too?  It could happen...

 

HF