Repacking the FMF Q4
Written by Highfive
I have owned several FMF Q-series mufflers. Currently have a Q2 for my KLR 650, and my son's KLX 250. The quality has been good, and the benefits are real. So, I didn't hesitate to purchase the new Q4 for my WRR. Yes, its louder than the original stock pipe, but not a lot according to my sound meter, or the friends who always seem to be riding BEHIND me. It has a deeper tone, and I think it sounds good. Its certainly enhances performance through more open free-flow (breathing) and is several pounds lighter. Slimmer profile too...doesn't stick out so wide and rub on my Dirtbagz like the stock pipe.
But, there's always a "but". Apparently, the packing needs to be replaced with some kind of frequency. The FMF Instructions said to replace the packing at 20 hour intervals. Hhhmmmm....I hear cash register bells ringing. Think I might have exceeded that interval a little. Ok, maybe a lot. One year and 6,000 miles, but whose counting? Everything still appeared to be working fine. But, I decided to refresh the packing anyway....just because I was in the mood to post another interesting article.
Simply logged onto FMF website and found "Pillow Performance Packing" for the Q-series. Sounded close enough to me, so I ordered two sets...cause I'm like that. Sometimes I get a "feeling". And I've learned to heed those HF feelings. Anyway, just like magic it showed up at Rancho Highfive in mere days:
So, let's get down to business! Once again, I'm on the garage floor. Yeah, I've got a work bench. But it always seems booked up holding clutter when I need it for the serious jobs....go figure! Besides, me and the floor just get along so well together. But I digress...
Step 1: REMOVE MUFFLER FROM BIKE
What? You figured that much...already? Ok, I bet you don't know the next one.
Step 2: Put on a comfortable pair of house shoes and hold muffler on your lap like this:
Seriously, first thing is to remove the Spark Arrestor. There is a small hex head screw in there. And mine was pretty tough to break loose. I soaked it good with some WD40 before continuing. That seemed to help. Still, it was a slow go with my primitive tool. Very small area to turn the wrench. Just be patient and TAKE YOUR TIME. It will all work out.
I had to use a very small (tiny) flat screwdriver to wedge under and pry the lip of the SA out....to get it moving. Then, it slid out easily.
Next up, remove the 4 bolts at the base of the Can. What a fabulous design here, by FMF. Actual bolts! Not rivets.
Now, the tough part: separating the outer shell from the inner core. There is some silicone sealer under that bolted area that seemed to have it glued together quite firmly. I used that small (teeny weeny) flat screwdriver again....inserting it carefully in the seam (near my wrench in above photo) to very gently pry up and break the seal without deforming the outer shell of the Can. Did this all the way around the circle. Then I used my rubber mallet to whack it like this:
Lo & behold she started coming apart. This was exciting! Like opening a hidden treasure chest to see what's inside (or not).
Success at last:
Please note carefully the packing material. It completely covers the entire length of the Can. See how the shape even conformed to the end cap.
I noticed a few holes in the packing material. It had definitely burned through in places.
Hhhmmm....I guess this could be considered "worn out". I donno. Wonder what it looked like at 20 hours? Technically, it still seemed to be working fine for me. Just sayin.
Here is a nice peak into the empty Can:
And, the inner core all by itself:
I can't believe how simple and lightweight this design is. Seems like nothing to it, but I know years of development have been invested into this design. And boy howdy does it work well. Just check out my Dyno results for proof.
Time to break out the new packing....er pardon me....the "Pillow".
Wow! This stuff is actually pretty nice. Look Mom....no mess! Not sure I'd want to sleep on it, though.
Instructions said to wrap it loosely around the inner core and fasten together with masking tape.
Only problem....its not long enough! What you see here is the whole entire length of "Pillow". There is nothing stuffed down into that cone at the base (like the original stuff). And, I've still got lots of stinger left by my hand. Now, I'm scratching my head. Strange....thy "Pillow" twasn't long e-nuff. Didn't see that one coming! Did I buy the wrong item? Doesn't seem so.
Okie Dokie....Time Out: I decided to put it all back together and go for a good long ride. Sounded fine. Worked fine. But I began losing sleep at night....thinking about that missing packing. And you know how important a good night of sleep is.
So, off she comes. I take it all apart again, and re-assess the situation. I just so happen to have purchased TWO Pillows for no apparently logical reason. But ah-ha....that was a good decision! You see, there's a life cycle to decisions. And it goes like this:
Good Decisions come from knowledge,
Knowledge comes from experience,
Experience comes from bad decisions.
I reckon that's why I bought TWO. Good things come in pairs, you know...
Back to the project, I stuff that Pillow way down into the base cone to fill it up.
Then figure out that TWO is TOO MUCH! So I cut the other one in half like this:
Yes, that's the new Pillow after one outing. The heat discolored it quickly. Kind of messy cutting it apart, and something doesn't seem right about it. But I figured I'm stuffing it all into a Can, so what does it matter...?
Here it is all wrapped up to the tip of the stinger:
Took a little more work to carefully slide the Can over the packing. Take your time and you'll get there. Try hard not to tear the packing apart as you slip it together.
Last major step is to seal the joint with some "High Temp Silicone Gasket" material like this:
Just put it on the edge of the inner part, slide them together, and wipe off the excess (which I've not done yet). Makes for a great seal and a nice clean look. Let the sealant cure for a while before starting the bike. You don't want to blow a hole through the sealant from exhaust back pressure through the seam. I prefer to let it sit overnight.
Put it all back on the bike and go ride! I promptly took my WRR on the 3rd Annual Winter Dualsport Ride in the Kiamichi Mountains of Oklahoma. A 4 day, non-stop Adventure in tough conditions. The pipe sounded normal, and everything worked great.
Next year, I'll only have to buy one more Pillow, as I still have the other half of this one waiting in a drawer. In the meantime, I think I'll call FMF and gain clarification concerning this issue. Maybe there is another packing specifically for the Q4, that I'm not aware of. Really, you could use any packing that you prefer. This same basic procedure would still work; though, you might generate a different sound output. I'm not certain.
HF
UPDATE: Spoke with FMF today....after 10 minutes on hold. Anway, the Rep said I should use the "FMF 4-stroke Performance Packing" (Product # 011393) for the Q4. Not the "FMF 'Q' Series Pillow Performance Packing" (Product # 0113940). Huh...? Standby, I think I need a Red Bull. I'm still trying to sort out the logic here...
He said the "4-stroke Performance Packing" should be the proper length to fit the Q4 (about 14 - 15 inches). Now, I need to go measure my muffler length. He did say the "Pillow Performance" and the "4-stroke Performance" packing materials were the "same stuff". So, at least I did shove the correct kind of "stuff" into my Can.
On the bright side (for you), the "4-stroke Performance Packing" is cheaper at only $11.95, while the "Pillow Performance Packing" was $24.95 (for me....twice). Golly, that sucks....don't it? So, for any of you that feel sorry for me....learning these things the hard way....on your behalf, I'm gladly accepting Paypal donations to support the cause!
Gee, you'd think FMF could figure out how to post an actual list of their mufflers with a simple cross reference to the correct Repacking Kits. Is that asking too much? Snookered again....I am.